You’re driving down Collings Avenue, maybe looking for a parking spot near the busier part of Haddon Ave, and you pass it. If you blink, you’ll miss it. A small, unassuming storefront with white lace curtains and a name that sounds like a carnival snack. But inside those four walls is arguably the most honest Sicilian food on the East Coast.
Zeppoli restaurant Collingswood New Jersey isn't just another Italian joint. It’s a 35-seat time machine.
Honestly, the first time you walk in, it feels like you've accidentally stumbled into someone’s private dining room in Catania. No host stand. No flashy bar. Just wooden tables squeezed together and the smell of roasting rabbit and lemon. It's loud, it's tight, and it's perfect. Chef Joey Baldino, a South Philly native with a resume that includes Vetri and Chez Panisse, opened this place in 2011. Since then, it’s become the kind of "if you know, you know" spot that lands James Beard nominations while still feeling like a neighborhood secret.
The Sicilian Soul in South Jersey
Why Sicily? Because it's a crossroads. You see it in the menu. There’s North African saffron, Greek influences, and Spanish flair. This isn't the heavy, red-sauce-everything "Jersey Italian" people joke about. It's lighter. It's brighter. It’s fish-forward and citrus-heavy.
The decor is just as intentional. Baldino didn't go to a restaurant supply store for his furniture. He got the tables and chairs from the legendary Dante & Luigi’s in Philly. The antique lamps? From Mr. Martino’s. The black-and-white photos on the walls are actual street shots from Catania. It feels lived-in because the history is literally built into the furniture.
What to Actually Order (And Why)
If you’re a first-timer, the menu can be a bit intimidating because everything sounds simple. "Tagliatelli al Limone." It's just lemon and pasta, right?
Wrong. It’s a revelation.
- Antipasto Siciliano: Do not skip this. It’s a "groaning board" of about 8 to 10 different bites. Think baked ricotta, tuna with white beans, roasted beets, and house-cured meats. It’s meant for two, but honestly, it could be a meal.
- Gamberetti e Fagioli: These are whole shrimp—heads and tails on—sauteed with garlic and chili, served over creamy cannellini beans. The beans soak up the shrimp fat and lemon. It’s messy. It’s worth it.
- Gnocchi alla Argentiera: These aren't potato pillows. They are spinach and ricotta gnocchi. They're so delicate they almost melt before you can even chew.
- Coniglio Pizzaiola: This is the stewed rabbit. It's braised for hours until it’s falling off the bone. If you think you don't like rabbit, this is the dish that changes your mind.
And obviously, you have to get the Zeppoli Siciliano. They are hot, yeasty puffs of fried dough coated in cinnamon sugar and served with a side of molten Nutella. It’s the restaurant’s namesake. It would be a crime to leave without eating one.
The BYOB Strategy
Zeppoli is a BYOB. This is key. Because the food is so specific to Sicily, you want to bring something that matches. A crisp Etna Bianco or a rugged Nero d’Avola works wonders here.
People often get caught up in the "Best of Philly" hype—and Zeppoli makes those lists every year—but it’s firmly a Jersey gem. The intimacy is the point. You’re going to hear the conversation at the table next to you. You might even join in. That’s the "Nana Test" in action. It’s a restaurant that replicates the chaos and warmth of a Sunday dinner at home.
Practical Realities: Reservations and Pricing
Look, getting a table isn't easy. You aren't just walking in on a Friday night and getting seated. You need to hit up Resy weeks in advance, especially for weekend slots.
Is it expensive? It's moderate to high-end. You’re looking at $70-$100 per person if you go all out with four courses, which you should. But you aren't paying for "fusion" or "molecular gastronomy." You’re paying for the fact that someone spent nine minutes kneading the focaccia dough by hand and his mom probably baked the pizzelle on your gelato.
The Baldino Factor
Joey Baldino is a bit of a local legend. Besides Zeppoli, he runs the ultra-exclusive Palizzi Social Club in South Philly. But Zeppoli is where he really gets to play with the rustic, raw flavors of his heritage. He spent months working on Anna Tasca Lanza’s farm in Sicily, and you can taste that "farm-to-table" ethos in every lemon zest and olive oil drizzle.
He’s not trying to reinvent the wheel. He’s just trying to make the wheel exactly like they did 200 years ago. In a world of TikTok-friendly food and "concept" restaurants, that kind of honesty is rare.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
- Book Early: Check Resy at least 2-3 weeks out for prime times.
- Bring the Right Wine: Ask your local wine shop for a Sicilian white (Grillo or Catarratto) to pair with the seafood-heavy starters.
- Don't Fear the Fish: The whole roasted fish (often Orata or Sea Bass) is handled with incredible respect. Don't let the bones scare you; the server can usually help if you're stuck.
- The Small Pasta Option: You can order "appetizer-sized" portions of the pastas. This is the pro move. It allows you to try the lemon tagliatelle and the gnocchi without ruining your appetite for the rabbit.
- Parking: Collingswood is a "walking town," but the street parking near Zeppoli (which is slightly off the main Haddon Ave drag) is usually a bit easier than the heart of the borough.
Zeppoli isn't just a place to eat; it's a place to slow down. Bring a good bottle of wine, a couple of close friends, and prepare to stay for two hours. It’s the best trip to Sicily you can take without a passport.
